Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/brijsman/albums/72157671204820836

Hiking The Whole Thing

Most people, when they talk about the Lost Coast Trail, they really mean the Northern section from Matolle beach to Shelter Cove.  There is also a much lesser known and lesser hiked Southern section that continues from Shelter Cove to Usal Campground.  The Northern section is 25 miles long, mostly flat, and goes almost completely over the beach. The Southern section adds another 20 or so miles and goes through quite challenging up-and-down terrain through the forest.  Confusingly, these are two different parks with different rules.  For example, in the Northern section there are fees for the camping grounds.  We wanted to “do the whole thing” so we decided to hike from Matolle to Usal

Shuttle from Usal Campground to Matolle Beach

We had arranged for a shuttle from the Usal Campground to Mattole Beach.  While it is relatively easy to arrange a shuttle from Shelter Cove to Mattole Beach, it is not easy to arrange for one from Usal Campground to Mattole Beach.  In the end we found only a single company that was able and willing to do it: Mendo Insider Tours and Transportation. 

The shuttle does not go every day.  Because we only arranged this last minute, we ended having to move our starting date and could only share the cost with one other hiker which was very expensive.  If you don’t have two cars of your own, you will want to arrange the shuttle far in advance so that you can nail down the date and maximize your chance that you can share the cost with other hiker.  If you get 6 or more people in the shuttle, the cost is still $100 per person.  

The last 10 miles of road from the highway to the Usal Campground are extremely steep and rough.  A high-clearance all wheel drive vehicle helps, although in dry weather you just barely make it in a normal car.  If it rains heavily – forget about it.

The drive from Usal Campground to Mattole beach takes about 4 hours.  There are two different ways of getting there.  One of them is only very slightly longer but takes you through a beautiful Redwood forest.

Soon after the beginning of the hike you will hit a section of trail that only be passed at low tide, so you need to time everything just right with the tide tables.  You did know that you need to bring a tide table on this hike, right?  You can call the ranger office and they can send you a very detailed map and the tide table.

If you can avoid it, don’t camp at Usal Campground. It can be crowded, and some of the people who stay there are the kind of folk who think it is fun to bring lots of booze and fireworks to camp sites.  You can find campsites with solitude and quiet on all of the rest of the Lost Coast Trail, particularly on the Southern Section, but even so on the Northern Section if you avoid camping at “the obvious places” at river mouths.

Day 1: Matolle Beach to Top of Bypass Bluf

We started hiking from Matolle Beach in the afternoon.  The first section over a sandy beach.  That soon changes to a beach of bowling ball sized boulders.  Neither is easy going. On the way you will see lots of sea lions and sea elephants basking in the sun on the beach or on rocks just offshore.  About 1/4 of a mile into the first 4 mile section that can only be passed at low tide, there is a very small section that can never be passed over the beach.  Here you have to follow a detour trail inland and up over a small bluff.  We camped on top of this bluff and had marvelous views.

Day 2: Top of Bypass Bluf to End of Miller Flat

The next morning, at low tide, we continued to finish the 4 mile section that can only be passed at low tide.  This takes you over sandy and rocky beaches.  Eventually you reach Miller Flat.  We continued to the very end of Miller flat, to another high bluff just before the second four mile section that can only be passed at low beach. Since it was early (4pm) we wanted to wait until after high tide (at 5pm) to continue.  However, it soon became clear that you really have to wait until the tide is very low for this section, so we decided to put up camp here and make it a lazy afternoon.  The view was certainly excellent.

Day 3: End of Miller Flat to Jones Beach

We woke up in a dense fog and started hiking the second stretch of 4 miles that can only be passed at low tide.  It was combination of loose sand, boulders, pebbles, and hard sand.  As we got closer and closer to Shelter Cove, we started running into very large groups of people coming for weekend camping trip.  (Come mid-week if you want any semblance of solitude.)

When you arrive in Shelter Cove, there is a section of hiking that goes over a tarmac road to the trailhead of the Southern Section.  We started walking, but soon found walking on the road extremely boring (the road is long and relentlessly up with no views), so we hitchhiked to the general store which is about halfway to the trailhead.  There we got some ice creams and more provisions, hitchhiked to the turn-off which is close to the trailhead, and walked the last bit to Hiddel Valley Trailhead.

From there, we started hiking the Southern Section of the Lost Coast Trail.  We decided to by-passed Nick’s Camp (too early) to continue to Jones beach.  If you take the trail that by-passes Nick’s Camp there is no water whatsoever until you reach Jones Beach.  Make sure your carry enough (there is water at Nick’s Camp, which is bit of a detour if you must go there.)

We camped at Jones beach.  There are four beautiful camp sites; we picked the one closest to the ocean (best views).  Two ladies camped in the upper site and told us about a land slide.  The park website claims that the trail is impassible because of this slide; this is definitely not true – the slides are very minor and there are easy short detours with ropes to get you around them.

This was a long day: we walked a total of 18 miles (if you don’t hitchhike the boring road section, add another 2 or 3).

Day 4: Jones Beach to Little Jackass Camp

The Southern Section is very different from Northern Section.  You hike through forests instead of over beach.  There are lots of steep climbs over high bluffs and deep galleys.  The forest is a mixture of dense jungle, redwood groves, and cliff-side brushes.  There are lots of blueberries and huckleberries.  We passed Wheeler campsite – it did not look not very good.  The path from Wheeler is difficult to find — stay left when reaching beach, look for lone tree with remains of chimney.  We camped at Little Jackass camp.  There are two camp sites in redwood grove, and several campsites nearer to beach.  There is one fantastic campsite right at the beach, 100 feet from high water line.  Obviously we picked the latter.

Day 5: Little Jackass Camp to Usal Camp

On the last day, we hiked from Little Jackass camp back to Usal camp.  There are three steep ups and downs over bluffs and through gulleys on this section: 600, 800, and 1000 feet.  We picked up car where we left it.